Designed by Marianne Isager
Published by FORA for Nordic Craft Week 2022

Tanskassa ei ole perinnettä erityisistä kalastajaneuleista, kuten muissa Pohjoismaissa. Tämä neulemalli pohjautuu taiteilija Michael Ancher (1849–1927) maalauksiin, joissa esiintyi monia kalastajia, ja voidaan arvella, että vastaavia neuleita ovat kalastajat käyttäneet tuulenpitävän takkinsa alla. 

Tanskalaiselle neuleelle tyypillistä on erilaisista silmukoista muodostuva pintakuviointi. Neuleet neulottiin tiukkakierteisestä langasta ja niistä haluttiin lämpimiä mahdollisimman vähin keinoin. Kohoneulepinta on kuohkea ja ilmava ja eristää siksi lämpöä hyvin.

In Denmark, we do not have a tradition of special fisherman’s sweaters, as we have in the other Nordic countries, but we do have a tradition of knitting structural knitting dating back to the 1600s.
The famous Skagen painter Michael Ancher (1849 – 1927) has portrayed many of his town’s fishermen, but we must guess what a warm wool sweater they have worn under their windproof jackets. The sweater has been in hand-strapped wool yarn and firmly in the structure, so the fisherman could keep warm in all kinds of weather. You might be able to transfer the texture knitting in the Danish sweater from, for example, the English ones – it was about making the shirt as insulating as possible with small means.

The sailor’s shirt was originally made after the English model, as years before had made hand-knitted versions of the characteristic knitted ”studs”, which give the shirt its unique warmth properties – and beautiful exterior. The knitted knob appeared as an answer to the question: how to create the most insulation for the least consumption of wool? When the bud is the answer, it is because it creates a small insulating pocket of air, which thus warms – without weighing.


ISAGER GARN

To represent the Danish sweater in Nordic Craft Week, we have chosen a design from Isager Yarn. Isager is a traditional company that is based on craftsmanship values and protects craftsmanship and materials. To knit Fora’s contribution to Nordic Craft Week, Karen Sejlund has willingly knitted all spring in 2022. Karen Sejlund is an experienced knitter who also has her own company that offers ready-made knitting – haandstrik.com. There is exciting reading about Karen Sejlunds story.

Ancher’s sweater was designed by Marianne Isager. It was a simple pattern in right and wrong that became the starting point for Ancher’s shirt for Skagens Museum. The shirt was designer in connection with an exhibition about Ancher, for Skagens Museum Store. Ancher’s sweater was designed by Marianne Isager.
It was a simple pattern in right and wrong that became the starting point for Ancher’s shirt for Skagens Museum. The shirt was designer in connection with an exhibition about Ancher, for Skagens Museum store.


The Danish company Isager has since 1977 been supplying patterns and quality yarns made from natural fibres, both known and loved by knitters the world over. The yarns and patterns are sold in selected shops in Denmark and internationally. The founder of Isager, Marianne Isager, and her daughter and co-owner of the company Helga Isager, are behind a line of popular knitting books.

The history of Isager began with designer Åse Lund Jensen (1920-1977), who established her studio in 1960. Åse Lund Jensen’s work was rooted in the Danish crafts tradition, but she took her inspiration in particular from the Icelandic and Faroes knitting cultures. In cooperation with Henrichsen’s Yarn Mill Åse Lund Jensen made a range of high-quality woolen yarns and her own favorites Spinni and Jensen Yarn are still part of Isager’s range today.

YARN QUALITY

The founder Åse Lund Jensen wrote: “Be critical when purchasing yarn. It is a great job to knit a jumper and it is a shame to see it crawl and ”wooly” after a few washes. Rest assured that the old rule ”cheap yarn is the most expensive” also applies here. In terms of beauty, the good yarns also look far finer than the coarse, cheap yarns with scratchy colors.”


One of wool suppliers at Isagers Yarn writes: “Contacting the farm directly gives us some obvious quality benefits, because we can trace each batch of wool back to the farm from which the wool comes. We only accept wool from the farms that live up to our requirements for ”Best Farming Practices” and ”Animal
Welfare”. This means that we can guarantee that all wool that comes with our integrity mark comes from sheep that have not been exposed to, for example, mulesing.”

With this story, Fora will show that there is a lot of attention to the knitting and yarn supply in Denmark. We hope this awareness will spread to the knitwear and yarn industry, so that everyone can have good sustainable clothes and experiences.


KNITTING PATTERN

Download the pattern for Anchers Shirt here (price 50 DKK) : isagerstrik.dk/vare/anchers-sweater-kvinder/

https://isagerstrik.dk/en/